Sri Lanka Tourism Blog

By Dinidu de Alwis, Pix by Sanka Vidanagama
Photo Credit : smadya - flickrThink life is boring, and a routine is setting in? Take a break from the usual shopping haunts and do something adventurous. Cross over to the dark side of shopping, where odors are overpowering and bargains are as abundant as dust, and crows.

Pettah, or the area opposite the Fort railway station, can be thought of as one big department store. Whatever one’s heart desires, it can be bought here. Sports fan, or an admirer of “label” foot ware and t-shirts. Look no further. This is a territory where T shirts from brands like Nike, Adidas and Puma sell for just over Rs 400/-. Shoes are available ranging from Rs 1500/- upto a ceiling amount of Rs 3000/-. Want a pair of shades to go with the look? Spend Rs 500/- tops to get a matching pair.

It’s a fruit paradise. Large stocks of bananas, pyramids of apples and oranges, and mountains of grapes sit right beside guavas the size of bricks. Although to be on the safe side, it’s better to wait till you get home and wash the dust off before munching in.

Movie buff? Feel right at home. Street-side shops retail any DVD for a mere Rs 100/-. This is the ground where Spielberg, Tarentino or Chopra would commit instant suicide. Looking for that latest block buster which is not released yet, or that elusive 70’s movie which everybody absolutely recommends you watch? Dig deep enough and spend enough time browsing through the 24-hour shops. Ah yes, 24-hours. See, these are not exactly shops, but small structures which are put up. This means there is no way to actually “close” the shop. So the vendors take turns in manning the shop on a shift basis for 24 hours.

It’s not a place for the faint of heart. But if you’re willing to haggle, and willing to explore, Pettah can provide you with bargains you never even thought of. And hidden under layers of fakes, are originals which can be bought at, well, fake prices.

Keep a bottle of water handy, and it’s advisable not to take a camera. If you do, ask permission from the vendors before taking picture, and most of the time, they would happily oblige. Take cash, but not a lot of it. Be careful how much cash you pull out. And it would be a good idea to have some wet tissues or baby wipes to wipe away the layers of dust.

And don’t forget to go to Shyam Bakers near the Private Bus Stand, and eat the famous Seeni Sambol bun. It’s a must do. Have fun at this explosion of sight, sound and smell. Yes, smell !

With the craving for Indian food on the increase, we take a look at yet another Indian restaurant that has become a preferred option for many who are hungry for spicy Indian food.

Curry Leaves restaurant, one of the countries premier Indian restaurants is patronized by locals and many Indians who just can’t get enough of the tempting array of Indian cuisines. Curry Leaves which began its operations in 1998, specializes in namely South Indian and North Indian food including Hydrabadi and Gujarati dishes.

The restaurant has attempted to draw in inspiration from the Indian culture by infusing certain elements like typical Indian copper tableware and the use of rich tapestries, which speak highly of India and its rich history.

Curry Leaves which is no stranger to the restaurant scene, takes pride is serving the best Biryani in town along with a host of other Indian dishes that are carefully prepared by their trained chefs from India.

The Managing Director of Curry Leaves Mr.Dill Wijemanne says that authenticity and quality are two ingredients that have enabled Curry Leaves to stay ahead of fierce competition amidst the growing appetite for spicy Indian cuisine.

Their delectable array of dishes are served in the form of an extensive buffet, while you can also select any dish of your choice from their wide-ranging a la carte menu.

Stir up your senses after experiencing the Curry Leaves cuisine which includes Kasturi Kebab, Roasted papad, Murg Yakhani Shorba, Makhani naan, cheese naan, aloo paratha, Gosht biryani mutton, chicken Chati Nado, Mutton Hydrabadi, crab masala, malai kofta curry, Kerala fish curry, Hyradabadi veg makhani, and whole lot more……

The buffet menu undergoes a constant change and new dishes are introduced, thus you have the opportunity to enjoy a diverse selection of authentic Indian dishes every time you enter the restaurant.

I especially enjoyed their chicken Biryani, and butter fried crab, -just perfect, scrumptious!!

After a fleeting glance at their a la carte menu I was caught by surprise at the exciting range of beverages on offer.

Orange, pears, watermelon, avocado, carrot, tamarind juices, mixed fruit milk shake, water melon milk shake, fruit and nut milk shake, lemon bubble tea, blueberry bubble tea, Lychee bubble tea, juggery sundae ice-cream , mint tea and a wide variety of other beverages will surely arouse your interest.

Try, the Amberalla juice it’s deliciously refreshing.

Curry Leaves also focuses its attention on outdoor catering where a team of trained chefs will bring your favourite Indian dishes right up to your doorstep for a nominal fee, giving you the privilege of enjoying these delicacies at the comfort of your own home. You can also savour a range of seafood delicacies on Wednesdays, where the restaurant puts on a great show of seafood dishes.

Besides enjoying a fine meal surrounded in pure comfort you can also pay a visit their one of the kind sports pub and special karaoke lounge where entertainment is in abundance with an uninterrupted viewing of the best in sports and a good selection of Hindi, English and Tamil songs performed at the karaoke bar.

Mr. Wijemanne speaking of the restaurant’s ambitious plans for the future says that plans are underway to create a vegetarian breakfast from 6.30 am to 10.30 am on weekends and Poyadays, catering specially to the growing band of vegetarians out there.

The Curry Leaves Lunch buffet is priced at Rs.575 nett while the dinner buffet goes for Rs.875 nett.

Lunch is served from 11.30 a.m. to 3.30 pm while you can enjoy dinner at the restaurant from 6.30pm to 12.30 am.

They also have takeaway facilities and home delivery within Colombo city limits.
The restaurant is situated at 68, W.A.Silva Mawatha, Colombo -6 and can be reached on 2580223 or 2593364 for your reservations or queries.

PEGASUS REEF HOTEL, Hendala, Wattala has redefined the concept of a “city resort beach hotel” after an extensive refurbishment.

Sri Lanka’s first star class hotel, Pegasus Reef is on a new promotion drive to focus the image of Sri Lanka, which will benefit the entire hospitality industry.

After the 2004 tsunami destruction, Pegas Reef virtually came to a standstill. However Rs 250 million refurbishment programme turned the new era of this pioneering hospitality establishment. After this massive refurbishment project, Pegasus Reef opened in mid 2006.

According to Director, Carsons Hotels, Paddy Withana, the new look opens the new avenues in business and it is now one of the most sought after miCe destinations in Sri Lanka.

“We have two big conference halls, which can accommodate over 350 guests with all modern facilities. A smaller conference hall at Pegasus, can accommodate about fifty guests. The biggest advantage in the location. Pegasus is just 45 minutes drive away from Colombo,” Paddy said.

Located on the north of Colombo, overlooking the Colombo Harbour Pegasus Reef is the only resort in the city. A few minutes drive away from the BIA, Pegasus Reef is one of the best transit hotels for business and leisure travelers.

Pegasus is the base hotel for SriLankan Airlines Cabin crew.

The refurbishment of the hotel introduced a new level of luxury accommodation in all 107 spacious deluxe rooms in three different wings.

The rooms are equipped with all modern facilities such as central A/C, cable TV, Telephone, Mini-bar, Safety lockers, Internet connections, Hot/Cold bath and private balcony/ terrace.

The beach “garden” and the pool wings faces the respective directions and the main highlights in all these rooms are the four-star comforts that goes with its ambience and facilities, former Tourist Board boss Paddy Withana said.

The open air restaurant with 150-200 covers has become very popular among guests. The choice of cuisine is a combination of Eastern and Western food together with a range of themes for entrainment. Fisherman’s Cove on the beach, spitfire BBQ nights are some of the attractions.

“Lunch Buffet” is a touch of semi Lankan and International combination and the Sri Lankan food, is cooked on claypots. Apart from the dinner buffet for those who prefer to have a different taste, the food could be ordered from the available ‘A-la-carte’ or set menu veteran hotelier, Paddy Withana, said. Paddy is the Director of Pegasus Reef Hotel and Giritale Hotel which are owned and managed by Carsons Cumberbatch Co.Ltd.

England’s cricketers have just started their tour of Sri Lanka, drawing thousands of fans in their wake. Rosanna de Lisle highlights some of the treats that await the Barmy Army.

Sri Lankans never seem to stop smiling, but when the England cricket team last toured their country, in late 2003, they had genuinely good reason to be cheerful.

England’s tour of Sri Lanka starts on October 1 with a one-day international in Dambulla, followed by two more on the same ground and two in Colombo. Sri Lankans like the excitement of day-night cricket and will bunk off work to watch screens on street corners, but it’s the Test matches in December that are expected to draw thousands of England fans.

So here’s our guide to the three Test venues, along with a few ideas for the companion who’s along for the ride rather than the wickets.

If dialing any of the phone numbers from outside Sri Lanka, replace the initial 0 with 0094.

Kandy: First Test, December 1-5

The hill capital was the last stronghold of the Sinhalese kings and still has a majestic air that is not all to do with its fresher weather. Arrive from hot, heaving Colombo and Kandy’s magnificent Temple of the Tooth, its calm grey-green lake and its steep, wooded hills seem to belong to another country.

The ground
The Asgiriya Stadium is carved into a hillside. England usually play well here, helped by the kinder climate. “Kandy tends to produce nail-biting, adventurous cricket,” says Charlie Austin. “The pitch is quicker and bouncier and the Kandy supporters are very vocal - this is Murali’s home town. They take on the Barmy Army and the camaraderie is very good.”

Where to stay
Much the loveliest place is The Kandy House, but its nine rooms are already booked during the cricket. However, there are plenty of larger hotels, comfortable if slightly staid, perched above the lake and river. The best bets are Amaya Hills, Earl’s Regency, Mahaweli Reach, Hunas Falls, Thilanka; from around £50 double b & b. The scenic Victoria Golf Course has a lodge and chalets.

Where to eat and drink
Kandy is not well endowed with restaurants but the most atmospheric place to eat is Helga’s FollyPub Royal (cocktails and dinner, about £10 per person; book ahead on 081 223 4571). Bamboo Garden (081 447 6099), up the hill from the Temple of the Tooth, is a cheap and cheerful Chinese with a terrace, bar and big screen; main courses from 400 rupees (£1·75). The colonial at the Queens Hotel and first-floor Pub, both on the main drag, Dalada Veediya, will be post-match hangouts.

Diversions from the field
The fantastically gilded Temple of the Tooth draws pilgrims from all over the world. Go at 10am or 6pm to see ceremonies; don’t expect to see the Buddha’s tooth relic, which is in a casket.

The Kandyan Arts Association has dance and drumming every day at 6pm. The British Garrison Cemetery is full of tea planters, whose stories are told by the caretaker. The Botanical Gardens are worth an hour or three. The elephant orphanage at Pinnawela is well known, but you will learn more about elephants, and can ride one, at the Millennium Elephant Foundation up the road.

Senani Silks, near Royal Palace Park, is great for saris. Isini Gems, opposite, is a museum as well as a shop. Waruna Antiques on Peradeniya Road is worth a rummage.

Matale, 14 miles north of Kandy, is famous for its spice gardens and for the renowned batik artist Ena de Silva’s Heritage Centre (066 222 2404). Book three days ahead to have lunch and you’ll be served up to 20 exquisitely slow-cooked curries.

Colombo: Second Test, December 9-13

At first sight, the capital is chaotic and charmless, but beyond the ugly thoroughfares there are pockets of serenity - avenues of rain trees, parks, temples and the odd grand public building.

The ground

The Singhalese Sports Club is Sri Lanka’s Lord’s. There’s no lighting here, so one-day matches happen at Premadasa Stadium. There’s no breeze and the ground can get hot and humid - for spectators as much as players. Leave the grass banks to the locals and find a seat in the shade.

Where to stay

The teams stay at the Taj Samudra. There’s nothing wrong with that, but if you want to wake up in no doubt about where you are in the world, you’d be better off at the Galle Face Hotel. This seafront institution is decidedly worn and the older rooms are probably only for those who wish the empire had never ended, but the Regency wing now has modern bathrooms (double b & b from £47).

For more sophistication, stay at one of Colombo’s new boutique hotels. The Park Street Hotel is a quietly swish conversion of a colonial bungalow (www.taruvillas.com; double b & b from about £140). Casa Colombo packs bold contemporary design into a Moorish palace. The décor is too funky for its shirt, but the MacBook, iPod and personal butler standard to each room make for a cosseting stay (www.casacolombo.com; double b & b from £180).

Where to eat and drink

England fans congregate at Clancy’s, the bar of the Colombo Cricket Club. Bayleaf, an Italian restaurant with a large garden, is also within walking distance of the SSC (79 Gregory’s Road; 011 535 9653). The Cricket Club Café (34 Queens Road; 011 250 1384) is highly themed, with Bradman’s burger and lots of memorabilia on the menu.

The Gallery Café (2 Alfred House Road, 011 258 2162) has great fusion food and, as the former office of the celebrated architect Geoffrey Bawa, even better style; dinner and drinks from £20 a head.

Beach Wadiya serves simple seafood right on the sands. It’s barefoot-relaxed, but you need to book (2 Station Avenue, 011 258 8568).

Diversions

Cricket widows should be consoled by Colombo’s shops. Paradise Road (next to the Gallery Café) sells chic contemporary homewares at prices so tempting you may want to ask about shipping; at Barefoot (706 Galle Road), vibrant, hand-loomed textiles are fashioned into everything from clothes to toys; and Odel (5 Alexandra Place) sells clothes made locally for Western labels, but without Western price-labels.

Galle: Third Test, December 18-22

Dangling into the Indian Ocean like a chunky jewel, Galle Fort is both historic and increasingly hip, as more and more of its 17th-century Dutch merchants’ houses are turned into hotels, villas and shops. Happily, it remains a living, working town and hasn’t become a museum.

The ground

The stadium should be rebuilt in time for the Test, but it’s really only the pitch that is vital: the game can be seen from the ramparts. “It’s like the carnival comes to town - it’s fabulous,” says Olivia Richli, manager of Amangalla, the Fort’s most sumptuous hotel. “There’s a party atmosphere on the ramparts and everyone gets very, very red.” Hats and sunscreen essential.

Where to stay

The teams stay at the Lighthouse, a late Bawa masterpiece that stands dramatically on a headland a mile from the Fort. Two freshwater pools and a superb spa draw non-residents, as does the sunset over the ocean (www.jetwinghotels.com; double b & b from £85).

Galle’s clutch of boutique hotels - Amangalla and the Galle Fort Hotel inside the ramparts, the Sun House and Dutch House in the new town - are fully booked during the cricket, but will be open to diners and drinkers. Tamarind Hill, a colonial mansion near the Lighthouse, should be open by December (www.taruvillas.com, double b & b from about £110).

There are plenty of cheaper options along the coast, such as Sun and Sand and Thambapanni Retreat in Unawatuna, and Amaya Reef and Cinnamon Gardens in Hikkaduwa.

Where to eat and drink

The best spots for sundowners are the Lighthouse, the Rampart Hotel in the Fort and the Ladyhill (Upper Dickson Road). Dine at the Galle Fort Hotel (091 223 2870), which has terrific pan-Asian food, or the Sun House (091 438 0275), where there’ll be a barbecue for up to 40 in the courtyard and a plasma screen in Dick’s Bar (free tuk-tuk shuttle from the ground). The bars - and beaches - of Unawatuna and Hikkaduwa will reliably rock into the night.

Diversions

There’s so much to see and do around Galle that even a cricket tragic could be tempted to miss a few overs. Wander round the Fort, taking in the Dutch church, temple, mosque, bastions and some surprisingly good shopping (find Barefoot, Elephant Walk, Mimimango and several jewellers on and around Church Street).

Surf at Hikkaduwa, dive at Unawatuna or head into the hinterland to Sinharaja rainforest, Samakanda, a visionary ecological project (www.samakanda.org), or Handunugoda Tea Estate (091 228 6364) which produces some of the world’s finest white tea.
# Red Dot Tours (0113 815 0864 or 01937 842846, www.reddottours.com) is the official agent for the England cricket tour. The company can book all the hotels mentioned above. Its packages are especially good value: Kandy Test, including return flights, eight nights’ b & b, airport and stadium transfers, tickets to all five days of the Test, from £905 per person, based on two sharing. Colombo and Galle Tests, with flights, transfers, match tickets and 16 nights’ b & b, from £940pp. Red Dot is also putting on events for supporters during each Test.